Mi dispiace per la durata di questo post, ma per favore condividi la mia frustrazione e qualsiasi consiglio sarebbe molto apprezzato!
Di recente abbiamo acquistato una casa e la caldaia deve essere sostituita, la casa è una semi -d a 4 letti con un BER C2. Il nostro ingegnere raccomanda di far pompare la cavità e isolamento attico e di considerare la sostituzione della caldaia con una pompa di calore in modo da poter usare le sovvenzioni. Quindi abbiamo deciso di ottenere alcune citazioni e fare qualche ricerca. In primo luogo abbiamo ottenuto una citazione per una nuova caldaia e un serbatoio e questo arriverà intorno a 4k – mi sembra a posto. Abbiamo in programma di andare avanti con l’isolamento raccomandato dall’ingegnere in entrambi i casi, ma la mia principale preoccupazione era che la casa non sarebbe stata ancora abbastanza isolata da eseguire la pompa di calore in modo efficiente. Inoltre, il nostro attuale rapporto BER afferma che se miglioriamo l’isolamento e sostituiamo la caldaia, la casa passerà da un C2 a un B2.
Siamo quindi andati a un seminario sugli retrofit gestiti da un punto-stop-shops, ho sentito che hanno ballato per molti problemi in relazione ai costi, ma l’opzione OSS sembrava una buona strada se stavamo ottenendo la pompa di calore perché se usi un OSS ottieni un finanziamento extra di € 4k di sovvenzione per la pompa di calore. Abbiamo quindi iniziato yourretrofit.ie e ho trovato un pacchetto OSS per un costo netto per noi di poco più di € 9k che ci avrebbe portato a un B1, sembrava una buona opzione (rottura sotto)
| Aggiornamenti | Costo | Concessione | Costo netto |
|---|---|---|---|
| Isolamento del pavimento soffitto | € 1.700 | € 1.300 | € 400 |
| Isolamento della parete della cavità | € 2.450 | € 1.200 | € 1.250 |
| Pompa da aria a acqua | € 16.100 | € 10.500 | € 5.600 |
| Gestione del progetto | € 3.442 | € 1.600 | € 1.842 |
| Totale | € 23.692 | 14.600 € | € 9.092 |
Ero ancora un po ‘scettico sulla pompa di calore, ma ho pensato che se avessimo anche ritrovato le finestre se potesse essere una buona opzione.
Velocemente a ieri siamo andati allo spettacolo di casa ideale in cui stavano esponendo sia il SEAI che molti OSS. Un particolare negozio One Stop ha attraversato il nostro BER e ci ha fornito una citazione di € 43.841 per portarci a una A3. Quando abbiamo visto la rottura dei prezzi siamo stati pavimentati: da dove stanno ottenendo queste cifre?! Ora so che questi prezzi non sono basati su una valutazione domestica, ma realisticamente non possono essere troppo lontani da ciò che ci forniranno dopo una valutazione domestica. Ci hanno anche detto che avremmo dovuto andare a un A3 o non avremmo raggiunto abbastanza un sollevamento chilowatt e tutto questo altro a cavallo non ci entrerò perché questo post è abbastanza lungo. Era la stessa storia con ogni OS con cui abbiamo parlato, la maggior parte di loro ci ha offerto un "scontato" Valutazione domestica e ci ha detto che non potevano darci alcun tipo di informazione sui prezzi fino a dopo la valutazione della casa.
C’era un’eccezione … Abbiamo parlato con qualcuno in un OSS che ci ha detto di non perdere tempo a prendere una pompa di calore. Ci ha detto che non pensava che ne sarebbe valsa la pena anche dopo aver migliorato l’isolamento e avremmo appena finito con enormi bollette di elettricità. Invece, il suo consiglio era di sostituire la caldaia aggiungere controlli di calore, isolare la cavità e la soffitta e di sigillare il camino o ottenere una stufa è che volevamo mantenere un incendio (notiamo infastiditi dall’incendio). Ci ha detto che siamo giovani (siamo a metà degli anni ’30) e che alla fine il prezzo delle pompe di calore scenderà e che saremmo pazzi di investire in un retrofit OSS e penso che abbia ragione!
È tutto così frustrante! Qualcuno ha qualche idea su quale sarebbe l’opzione migliore qui? Sostituiamo semplicemente la caldaia dell’olio con un altro e otteniamo i controlli di calore e l’isolamento o consideriamo la pompa di calore ma applichiamo le sovvenzioni individualmente?
Tldr; Abbiamo una semi D a 4 letti classificata in C2 e abbiamo bisogno di una nuova caldaia. Abbiamo intenzione di ottenere la cavità e la soffitta isolata, otteniamo solo un’altra caldaia ole per olio o consideriamo una pompa di calore?
Grazie!
https://i.redd.it/ndq5ck0xftue1.png
di Enidan26
21 commenti
No advice sorry but commenting so I can return and read the comments
Simply chancing their arm. And some clowns will pay it.
I had a builder a few years back, Quoted me for renovations. Went ahead with the job.
Towards the end he sent me an “Extras Invoice”
There was a charge of €1500 for “paint” and €1750 for “floors”.
(This was in the first invoice and was covered)
Rang him. Explained we bought the paint and the actual timber for the floors.
Never heard from him again.
Chanced his arm.
From what I understand, you won’t be able to buy oil boilers anymore after 2030, at which point the price of oil will likely increase. Same with gas and solid fuel stoves.
I’d get the boiler and the stove and just do the insulation myself, personally. But 60k?! Fuck right off. Not happening. I wouldn’t pay anyone 60k for anything unless it was a house with land.
I have a friend who is a plumber doing retro fits and specifically fitting heat pumps. I live in a 2003 semi. He told me never to upgrade to a heat pump because my house would never be insulted enough to make it cost effective. In his opinion unless external insulted ie the house is wrapped outside then it wont work as the cavity wall isn’t enough to insulted effectively because the gap is not big enough.
I would get a heat pump only if the house can keep the heat, otherwise you will be paying a lot in bills.
I purchased C1 3bed semi-d house end of last year, build in 2003. Oil heating. Cavity pumped, attics is insulated. I would not be getting a heat pump until we get new doors and windows.
My Heat Loss on BER cert is 1.8 (which is in advisory bracket for heat pamp – below 2.3 you have a green light). However, I can feel the draft in front doors and windows are only double glazed.
Suggestions to continue oil heating for now may be on point. Make sure your house is airtight and update to heat pump then. Also, not every house would be suitable for a heat pump – if it’s not airtight, then it’s a waste of money.
Just go the one off grants route for the insulation and get a new boiler less than 8k you don’t need a heat pump.
Unless you’re fully renovating, insulating floors etc and the house is air tight and has mechanical ventilation, you’ll be pissing away money with a heat pump. Stick to the gas boiler,
We paid around 45k for one stop shop, got from an E rating to an A3 while keeping our gas boiler.
I have a bungalow built in 80’s and have done renovations
Heat pump will be a huge expense and not willing to look at it
Get oil boiler serviced, check if condensor boiler and leave as is
Pump the cavity, do the attic insulation. remove any major issues as cheaply as possible to reduce oil usage to a minimum
Seal off chimney and drafts points
I updated the heating system to start controls with wifi TRV’s in each room
All of this done over a period
One section of house was bad so we did put in new insulated plasterboard on the interior walls as well as pumping the walls.
Not sure why an engineer is recommending a heat pump, I wouldn’t recommend it
What does “full heating system” mean? Are they replacing the rads and pipework? Just a heat pump is about €5-6k to buy. So if they are replacing your rads, adding controls, zoning your heating etc etc the price isn’t far off.
My house was built in 2003, cavity wall insulation. Double insulation in attic, double glazing. Condensing boiler with all rooms zoned and TRV’ on rads. Immersion and oil for heating water. I was told by someone doing the BER surveys it would take approx $65k to bring the home up to B2. biggest issue highlighted was we needed new doors front and back at a cost of approx €5k however there are no grants for doors. Absolute scam and it appears the Government are prepared to pay whatever fines are coming from Europe rather than actually help people bring their homes up to scratch. I’ve almost paid off my mortgage and sure as hell won’t be taking out another one.
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Trying to navigate the system at the moment also. Seems like the help to buy scheme. We will give you 20,000… Price of the house goes up by 20,000. The grants mean fuck all, if theyre just adding them on to the price of the works.
We have a 2004 3-bed semi, bought with BER E1 in 2020.
We got the cavity-walls and the attic done for Euro 1,700.
Flushed/deep-cleaned the heating system, got thermostats on all radiators and replaced the old oil boiler with a Grant condenser-boiler, all for Euro 3,500.
I myself insulated the utility room door and the front door with PIR insulation board, for less than Euro 100.
And the BER went from E1 down (or up?) to C2.
Interesting discussion, kinda chimes in with other anecdotes regarding the full fat air to water source heat pumps. In theory fine but so many practical and cost inhibitors. I’m wondering about going a different route with air to air mini split heat pump say 12 kWh in an 80 square meter bungalow.
Home retrofits are probably the worst bang for your buck at the moment.
The world is pivoting towards solar as the primary source of energy generation.
China is currently producing solar energy for 2 cent a kilowatt.
They expect to have that at 0.2c a kilowatt in a decade.
At that stage, energy would be basically free.
>When we seen the price breakdown we were floored – where are they getting these figures from?!
their mostly on point for the windows , i got 2 windows replaced they were orginally on the house ( didnt get a grant etc ) cost me over 2k , your getting a house worth of windows for 10k thats a steal ,
also it didnt include windows etc which wasnt billed in OSS ,
also as others mentioned the plumbing price is rather good for whats being done ,
I was reading it and trying to understand why the fuck are they charging you for windows 2010 licenses. I’m so fucking dumb.
I got new windows doors and a new condenser oil boiler in my 4 bed semi and turned it from a G to a B1 forget that heat pump Bollox
Im in the same boat. We have gone sale agreed on a 1985 detached 124m2 D1 BER 4-bed, but we’ll be replacing our boiler with a combi boiler and zoning the downstairs and upstairs. I plan to install two hive heating controls and at least we will get the €700 grant for that. We’ll also pump the cavity and get the attic insulated.
You should do all the insulating, window upgrades etc. first and then test to see if you can run a heatpump. Have a look online but basically you need to run your boiler at a low temperature (~50C) and ensure the house reaches the thermostat temperature (e.g. ~20c). If not, then you’re probably not gonna be able to get a heatpump.
If it can, and especially if you find that the boiler doesn’t run constantly but has some downtime before coming back on, then it’s suitable.
You might find then you can stick with gas for a while if you can run at a temperature this low anyway (only applies for combi boilers, you need to keep regular boilers hot for safety reasons)
A friend of mine in Poland realised it was dramatically cheaper to do the few day course to become a registered installer of heat pumps and get wholesale pricing and installed it himself for like 1/4 the price he was quoted haha